It arrives with a twee touch (fennel pollen) on a bed of mashed potatoes possessing the right balance of cream and well-roasted heritage carrots the size of half-smoked cigars. Another winning dish: an appropriately gelatinous pork belly, brined, slow-cooked for 36 hours and caramelized in apple cider vinegar.

Thick, crisp french fries cooked in beef fat are a nice complement. Atherton studied America's carnivore cathedrals, like Peter Luger in Brooklyn, before his breakout role opening Maze for Ramsay in London steak impresses at The Clocktower, too, with a funky juiciness that comes from aging 40 days on the bone. Atherton, slim and stubbled, instead exudes a studied cool, down to his slim green-and-yellow plaid trousers and Tom Ford wingtips.Īmong the more memorable starters, a none-too-timid hand-chopped beef tartare with a thin slice of toast and bone marrow, scooped from its skeletal casing tableside. (He now has 16 restaurants and three Michelin stars, for Pollen Street Social, Social Eating House and City Social.) He did not, however, inherit Ramsay's much-televised intensity. Like Ramsay, Atherton has since built a restaurant empire extending to all corners of the former British Empire-first with Pollen Street Social in London's Mayfair, then Hong Kong, Shanghai, Singapore and Sydney. He spent his formative years in kitchens with Marco Pierre White and Ferran Adrià, then did an extended tour of duty under Britain's culinary drill sergeant, Gordon Ramsay.

The 43-year-old Atherton, like the best Wagyu cattle, was bred for this moment. The most tasteful aspect of the New York Edition-Ian Schrager's latest boutique hotel collaboration with Marriott-is clearly its second-floor restaurant, The Clocktower, run by Michelin-starred chef Jason Atherton.

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